Tip #1

Have you ever tried to remove your wheel opening moldings and just ended up stripping those little screws out? Here are a couple solutions, before removing those chrome screws go get a small flat chisel and apply the chisel under the screw edge (between the screw and the molding) give the chisel a good hit with a hammer this will tilt the screw a little and it should come loose. ALSO, before loosening the screw go to a local engine builder and automotive store, buy a small tube of (VALVE LAPPING COMPOUND) apply a small amount onto the head of the screw. You will notice it is gritty; this will help hold your screwdriver into the screw and help prevent the stripped head. This will also work on step plates and any other small screws you may have problems with. TRY IT, IT WORKS.

Tip #2

Ever get a car back from repair and there is paint over spray on the windshield? I have the solution!!! Buy some STAINLESS STEEL triple ought. Take this stainless steel and polish the over spray away that is on the GLASS ONLY. Gently rub the glass and the overspray will come off. May take a little more pressure if there is a lot of overspray. You can also use this to clean up and Brighten your chrome bumpers and handles. USE WITH CAUTION NEXT TO PAINT WILL SCRATCH PAINT, DO NOT USE ON MIRRORS EITHER, WILL DAMAGE MIRROR. ONLY GLASS & CHROME.

Tip #3
CHROME BUMPERS:

When installing new or re-chromed front and rear bumpers DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the bolts you install them with. When you over tighten the bolts this will suck in the outside of the bumper and leave sunken in spots around the bolts. You will also take a chance on cracking the new chrome also. Both can lead to another re-chrome and/or buying a new bumper. When installing, watch the outside of the bumper were the bolt goes in, when you see it starting to pull stop. Tighten the bolts slowly. If you are worried about them vibrating loose, put a little lock tight on the bolts threads before installing the lock washer and nut.

Tip #4
BUYING A CLASSIC OR MUSCLECAR:

Ok, everyone gets excited when they go out and look for a new ride to bring home and restore. I've seen a lot of people buy the first car they see or they bring one home that is very shiny and looks new. Once we begin to tear down and strip that nice shiny car we find body filler (bondo) and god knows what stuffed here and there. STOP!!!!  One of the first things you should look for is the condition of the frame or frame rails underneath the car, then check the cowl and firewall areas behind the engine in the engine bay, and shock towers and so forth. Make sure this car has a solid and safe (I like to say foundation) before jumping onto a never ending project. Sure it is nice to see a car with decent paint before restoration, BUT don't let the good looks fool ya. I'm not saying most cars are this way, just be careful and take your time and INSPECT the above before jumping. You and your families SAFETY is very important DON'T TAKE A CHANCE. If you keep this in mind, you will have an enjoyable muscle car restoration experience.


Tip #5
WINTER STORAGE: 

Ok, I'm sure everyone at 1 time or another has seen classic cars in winter storage that have had mice in the car or in the engine area and made messy houses and torn things up. A sure fire way to keep mice out of your car is by using everyday dryer sheets that you may use in the laundry. Go get some and put several in the trunk of the car, several in the front and back seat area. Several under the seats and several in the engine bay (make sure engine is NOT HOT). MICE do not like the scent of humans and the smell of these things are like a human scent, therefore no more mice. This is safe and is a harmless way to rid your classic of mice.

It always helps to go into a restoration with professional advice. If you have questions about mopar restorations or frame off restoration, give us a call today.
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